| Recommended Uses | |||||
| Silicone
|
Seals joints between bath and kitchen fixtures and tile; adhesive for tiles and metal fixtures; seals metal joints as in plumbing and gutters. | Dry cloth will remove spots if area is cleaned up immediately. Use mineral spirits or naphtha. | Little or none. | Good to excellent | Readily available. Flexibility of
cured silicone allows stretch of
joints up to three times normal
width or compression to one-half
the width.
Cost: High |
| Silicone
|
Seals most dissimilar building materials (i.e., wood and stone; metal flashing and brick). | Same as above | Same as above | Same as above | Remains flexible for life after
curing. Permits joints to stretch or
compress. Silicones will stick to
painted surfaces, but paintwill not
adhere to cured silicone.
Cost: High |
| Butyl Rubber | Seals most dissimilar materials (glass, metal,, plastic, wood, concrete). Seals around windows and flashing, or bonds loose shingles. | Use mineral spirits or naphtha. | From 5 to 30 percent | Good | Less resilient than silicones. Allow
for joint movement but does not
become brittle with age. Can be
painted after skin forms. Apply
when temperature is above 40
degrees F.
Cost: High |
| Latex | Seals joints around tub and shower; fills cracks in tile, plaster, glass, and plastic; fills nailholes. | Use water. | From 5 to 10 percent | Good to excellent | Easy to use. Seams can be trimmed
or smoothed with moist finger or
tool. Good water resistance when
dry. Can be sanded and painted.
Less elastic than above materials.
Easy to clean up.
Cost: Moderate |
| Oil-Base Caulks | Seals exterior seams and joints on building materials. | Use mineral spirits or naptha. | From 10 to
20 percent |
Good | Readily available. Least expensive
of the four types. Rope and tube
form. Oils dry out and cause
material to harden and fall out.
Cost: Low |