LEARNING HOW TO CONDUCT
A HOME ENERGY AUDIT

GOAL:

To understand how to conduct a home energy audit.

OBJECTIVE:

At the end of this activity, the student should be able to:

1. Identify the major construction, maintenance and design features that make a building energy efficient.

2. Explain energy saving steps to a homeowner.

3. Conduct an energy audit.

LESSON / INFORMATION:

We spend most of our time in buildings -- homes, schools, offices and stores. But most people seldom notice details about the buildings, such as how they are designed, how they are built, and how well they are maintained. These details are important because they contribute to our comfort and well being and affect the cost of operating them.

An "energy efficient" building is more comfortable than an energy wasteful building. It needs less fuel or electricity for heating or cooling. A building that is badly designed and poorly maintained wastes money. Why? Because it is trying to heat or air-condition the outdoors as well as the indoors.

The following activity allows one to become an instant ENERGY AUDITOR. The assignment: Identify whatever helps or hinders energy conservation in a specific building. One can become a detective looking for "bad guys" that waste energy and money.

DEFINITIONS:

Radiation -

the passage of energy through open space, like sunlight. In the winter, during the daytime a building absorbs solar radiation, but after the sun goes down, it starts to re-radiate heat to the cold outside air unless something is done to block the radiation. In the summer, efforts have to be made to block solar radiated heat from entering the house.

Conduction -

the passage of heat through a material. Some materials, like glass and metal, conduct heat (and lose it) easily. Insulation helps to block conduction of heat. If ceilings and walls are poorly insulated, they conduct heat from the house to the outside.

Convection -

the transfer of heat by movement of air. In the winter, as heated air contacts cold surfaces such as windows, it loses heat. The cooled air is denser than warm air, so it tends to settle, pushing warm air toward the ceiling. These temperature changes and air movements form a pattern. Warm, light air from the ceiling area is chilled along the windows, becomes heavier and drops to the floor. It moves across the floor, is reheated, moves up the opposite wall (away from the window), across the ceiling and down past the window again. During each cycle the air loses heat. Heat must be supplied from a sunny window, a furnace, stove, or other heater to maintain a comfortable temperature.

Condensation -

the beads of moisture that form on cool surfaces when warm, moist air is cooled. Moisture condensing from room air (showers, breathing, cooking, etc., provide the moisture) shows up most on the cooled areas. Wet or frozen windows are reminders of wasted heat. Reduction of condensation is possible with double glazing of windows, insulating shades, or storm doors.

Air Infiltration -

the air seepage due to wind. Air pressure pushes hot air (cold air in the winter) through tiny openings on the windy side and draws cooled air in on the opposite side of the house. Infiltration occurs through wallboard cracks, gaps around paneling (top, bottom, sides), cutouts for pipes and wiring, poor seals for window sashes, doors with poor weatherstripping, and loose moldings.

Hot Water Waste -

most Americans waste hot water by following some of the these bad habits: (1) letting the hot water flow while shaving, (2) using excessive hot water in taking a bath or shower, (3) using hot water for all loads when washing clothes, (4) setting the hot water tank at 140°F or at the normal setting instead of 120°F, (5) not insulating all hot water lines, and (6) letting the hot water run while rinsing dishes.

68°F - 78°F -

the average family can save ten to twenty percent (10-20%) of their energy bill by setting the thermostat at 78°F in the summer and 68°F in the winter.

Natural Cooling and Heating -

during the early spring and late fall, it is possible to be very comfortable without heating or air conditioning. The incorporation of many of the energy saving features presented in this and other energy guides makes it possible to be comfortable during these time periods. For example, air movement caused by ceiling fans enables one to be comfortable 3-5 degrees higher than the temperature normally accepted as being in a comfort zone.

Fluorescent Lights -

up to thirty percent (30%) of lighting costs can be eliminated by using fluorescent instead of incandescent lights. It is now possible to replace most incandescent light bulbs with fluorescent bulbs.

Ridge Vent -

the installation of ridge vents makes it possible to reduce attic temperature by 10-30 degrees and remove excessive moisture at the same time.

Insulation -

the material with high resistance (R-value) to heat flow. Some commonly used materials for home insulation are fiberglass, cellulose, rock wool, and styrofoam. The resistance to heat flow is provided by the many small dead air spaces between the fibers or particles. Insulation comes in a variety of forms; blankets, or batts, foam, boards, or small loose pieces.

R-Value -

the factor which tells how much resistance to heat flow a material has. The higher the R-value, the greater the insulating efficiency of the material. R-values are commonly stated per inch of building material. R-values are additive -- thicker material or a combination of materials means increased resistance to heat flow.

Nominal R-Values for Various Thicknesses of Insulation (in inches)

R- Value	Batts or Blankets		Loose and Blown Fill
	Glass Fiber	Rock Wool	Glass Fiber	Rock Wool	Cellulose Fiber	Vermiculite	Perlite
R-11	3 1/2 in	3 in.	5 in.	4 in.	3 in.	5 in.	4 in.
R-13	3 5/8	3 1/2	6	4 1/2	3 1/2	6	5
R-19	6-6 1/2	5	8 1/2	6 1/2	5	9	7
R-22	7	6	10	7 1/2	6	10 1/2	8
R-26	8	7	12	9	7	12 1/2	9 1/2
R-30	8	7	12	9	9	12 1/2	9 1/2
R-30	9 1/2	8	13 1/2	10	8	14	11
R-33	10 1/2	9	15	11	9	15 1/2	12
R-38	12	10 1/2	17	13	10	18	14

Above charts courtesy of SLEMCO from page Page 9 of their Design One Builder's Guide, 1988.

R-value standards for a super efficient house:

Ceiling: R-38; Exterior Wall: R-19; Floor: R-19

Window Treatments -

the applications to the exterior or interior side of windows (blinds, shades, shutters, draperies), used to save energy by keeping heat in or out. In the summer, windows should be shaded from the outside to keep heat from entering the home.

Roof Overhang or Porch -

a projection on the exterior of a building placed (ideally) so that it shades southern windows in summer only, when the sun is high in the sky. This saves on air-conditioning cost. In the winter when the sun is low, the overhang should allow the sun to hit the house and windows.

Windbreak -

the dense row of trees, or a fence or other barrier that interrupts and changes the local path of the wind. Windbreaks located on the north and west sides of a building can save heat by reducing wind chill and air infiltration.

Storm Doors -

the supplementary outside door, usually glazed, for protecting the entrance door against drafts in the winter months and used as a screen door for ventilation during the summer months.

Caulk -

the soft, semi-solid material that can be squeezed into non-movable joints and cracks of a building, thereby reducing the flow of air into and out of the building.

Weatherstripping -

the material which reduces the rate of air infiltration around doors and windows. It is applied to the frames to form a seal with the moving parts when they are closed.

House Orientation -

most energy conservation practices will be made much easier if the home is properly oriented. A South orientation will make it possible to use natural light and natural heating and cooling. During the fall and spring seasons, it may be possible to use only natural heating and cooling with windows and doors only on the long axis of the house (the South and North). It is possible to draw the South and North breezes for cooling purposes. The sun coming in from the south windows is beneficial for winter heating.

INFORMATION CHECK

1. How many of the items on the Energy Conservation Survey are inexpensive and easy to install? Which ones would require more money, time and skill?

2. Why is hot water needed in the home? Name some ways hot water can be saved in the home.

3. If a homeowner had only a limited amount of money, what energy savers do you think would help for the least amount of money?

ACTIVITY:

Directions:

Take this questionnaire home and select the appropriate answer to each question for your home. Make a check mark next to the correct answer under ME. Leave the CLASS boxes blank. (The term home in this survey can mean house, apartment, mobile home, etc.)

1. Which of the following would best describe the outside area immediately surrounding your home?

ME

( _ ) protected by buildings on sides

( _ ) protected from wind coming from the northwest

( _ ) faces south

CLASS

( _ ) protected by buildings on sides

( _ ) protected from wind coming from the northwest

( _ ) faces south

Recommendation:_______________________________________

2. Which of the following would best describe the exterior walls of your home?

ME

( _ ) the walls contain 6 inches of insulation

( _ ) the walls contain 3 inches of insulation

( _ ) there in no insulation in the outside walls

( _ ) other _______________________________________________

CLASS

( _ ) the walls contain 6 inches of insulation

( _ ) the walls contain 3 inches of insulation

( _ ) there in no insulation in the outside walls

( _ ) other _______________________________________________

Recommendation:_______________________________________

3. Which of the following would best describe the type of insulation in the upstairs ceiling or attic in your home?

ME

( _ ) 12 inches or more

( _ ) 9 inches

( _ ) 6 inches

( _ ) none

( _ ) other _______________________________________________

CLASS

( _ ) 12 inches or more

( _ ) 9 inches

( _ ) 6 inches

( _ ) none

( _ ) other _______________________________________________

Recommendation:_______________________________________

4. Does your home have storm / screen doors?

ME

( _ ) yes

( _ ) no

CLASS

( _ ) yes

( _ ) no

Recommendation:_______________________________________

5. Which of the following would best describe the condition of the exterior of your home?

ME

( _ ) all windows and doors are weatherstripped and caulked

( _ ) some windows and doors are weatherstripped and caulked

( _ ) no windows and doors are weatherstripped and caulked

( _ ) caulking and weatherstripping needs replacing

CLASS

( _ ) all windows and doors are weatherstripped and caulked

( _ ) some windows and doors are weatherstripped and caulked

( _ ) no windows and doors are weatherstripped and caulked

( _ ) caulking and weatherstripping needs replacing

Recommendation:_______________________________________

6. What is the average temperature in your home?

ME

( _ ) day - summer

( _ ) day - winter

CLASS

( _ ) day - summer

( _ ) day - winter

Recommendation:_______________________________________

7. How many months of the year do you turn the air conditioning off?

ME

( _ ) 1 month

( _ ) 2 months

( _ ) 3 months

( _ ) 4 months

( _ ) 5 months

CLASS

( _ ) 1 month

( _ ) 2 months

( _ ) 3 months

( _ ) 4 months

( _ ) 5 months

Recommendation:_______________________________________

8. Does your home have fluorescent lighting?

ME

( _ ) yes _____%

( _ ) no

CLASS

( _ ) yes _____%

( _ ) no

Recommendation:_______________________________________

9. Does your home have windows facing north and south?

ME

( _ ) yes

( _ ) no

CLASS

( _ ) yes

( _ ) no

Recommendation:_______________________________________

10. Does your home have ceiling fans?

ME

( _ ) yes

( _ ) no

CLASS

( _ ) yes

( _ ) no

Recommendation:_______________________________________

11. Do you turn the lights off when you leave your room?

ME

( _ ) yes

( _ ) no

CLASS

( _ ) yes

( _ ) no

Recommendation:_______________________________________

12. Does your home have a ridge vent and soffit vents?

ME

( _ ) yes

( _ ) no

CLASS

( _ ) yes

( _ ) no

Recommendation:_______________________________________

13. What is the temperature setting on the hot water tank?

ME

( _ ) 110 - 120

( _ ) 150 - 160

( _ )180 - 190

CLASS

( _ ) 110 - 120

( _ ) 150 - 160

( _ )180 - 190

Recommendation:_______________________________________

Once the audit is complete, return the audit form to your instructor so that the class may compare results and complete the questionnaire by discussing the class answers. Discuss the findings and make recommendations for each question. The audit should be returned to your parents, and you should explain recommendations.

RECOMMENDED READING:

New York Energy Education Project, Research Foundation of the State University of New York. Albany, NY 1985.

Builder's Guide for Energy Efficient Construction, SLEMCO, Lafayette, LA. 1988.

PROCEDURES:

1. Go over the vocabulary lists and discuss these terms with the class to assure that each term is understood.

2. Using the Survey Sheets, have the students complete the observations on their house, apartment, and/or a building

.

3. Develop a set of recommendations for improving energy conservation in the house, apartment or building. List alternatives whenever possible, so that the owner has choices in making conservation improvements.

4. Compare observations with other students in order to improve your study. As a class, go back through survey to see "normal" practices. Compare yourself to norm. Revise improvements based on this discussion.

5. Go back over recommendations for improvements.

1.

All of the items listed in the survey are relatively low cost especially when one considers the savings resulting from the reduction in energy cost. The only two items which would be somewhat costly are insulation and ceiling fans. Even these two recommendations would pay for themselves in very little time. An additional 6 inches of insulation in an attic may only cost $300-$400 in a medium size house and would pay for itself in two to three years. Three ceiling fans could be purchased for about $150.00 and would pay for themselves in one or two years.

2.

Hot water is needed to wash dishes and for baths and showers. Many households use hot water for washing all clothing; however, with the detergents available today, many if not all loads can be washed with cold water. A wise energy conservation practice is to lower the setting on the hot water tank to 120°F; no one will notice the change and a $10 to $12 per months reduction in the energy bill will result. Others ways in which to save on your hot water bill include:

1) Turn the hot water control off when not in use, do not let it run for chores like rinsing dishes, shaving or washing your face.

2) Repair all water leaks.

3) Install a flow control valve on all shower heads.

4) Heat your hot water with gas if available.

5) Install a hot water timer on your water heater.

6) Insulate your hot water tank and pipes.

7) Install a flap valve on the inside of your hot water tank.

8) Turn water heater off if you leave for more than two days.

3.

The most effective low cost energy savers include:

1) Plant trees, grass and shrubs in the desired location.

2) Adjust your thermostat to 68°F in the winter and 78°F in the summer.

3) Change all bulbs to fluorescent.

4) Turn all lights off when you leave a room.

5) Weatherstrip and caulk exterior doors and windows.

6) Install a ridge vent.

7) Lower the thermostat to 120°F on your water heater.

8) Install ceiling fans.

Comments or questions to: TechAsmt@LA.GOV

Return to Audits Menu